Maybe the most beautiful Beach.

Posted by on August 13, 2013

Pantai Bira-2After travelling down Sulawesi for about three weeks, long transportation days on bad roads and a cultural highlight in Tanah Toraja, my Sulawesi trip was coming to an end. Before taking off to Flores, I figured I would need a couple of relaxed days somewhere on the beach. Since my ferry to Flores would depart from Makassar, the sleepy beach town of Pantai Bira sounded like a worthwhile option. A five hour drive from Makassar, the town was supposed to be small, not too touristy and very very laid back. Exactly what I was looking for to top off my Sulawesian experience.

After yet another long day of driving, I made to Pantai Bira in the late afternoon. Just enough time to check for a nice guesthouse and have a cold sun-downer at the local beach. There I met Luke from England who also had just recently arrived. He also stayed at the same guesthouse and we decided to have dinner together. Thierry, another long term traveler from France, joined in and our team for the next couple of days was complete. We enjoyed some good food, some more cold drinks and made plans for the next day. The guys wanted to chill out on the beach whereas I planned to rent a motorbike and cruise around for a bit.

Shipbuilding the traditional way
The owner of our guesthouse mentioned that the local shipbuilders are definitely one of the highlights. There are actually two sites where the locals build traditional ships like they used to do already a couple of hundred years ago. All by hand with traditional tools and only basic machinery involved. I went to the closest site first which was also the smaller of the two. But the sight was already amazing The guys were working on a huge vessel right on the beach and another one was being built right beside it. It looked awesome and the fact that it was all built by hand made it even more impressive.

The first of the two ships being built.

The first of the two ships being built.

... and the second one. Amazing craftsmanship.

… and the second one. Amazing craftsmanship.

My second stop was Tanah Meru, the most renowned shipbuilding site and also the biggest. Things here were even more impressive. One shipbuilder beside the other and all kinds of different ships being built. On some the construction must have just been begun, only a few wooden beams put together, some were almost finished with only a coat of paint missing. The craftsmanship of the people there was amazing. Once I walked through the shipbuilders construction sites onto the beach, the scene was different. No ships being built but old ones rotting away on the beach or in the water. I guess it is a cycle that has been going on like that for ages. Definitely an interesting contrast.

On my way back, I stopped at a little fishermen village. People there were friendly as usual but a little bit more distant. It was still nice to walk around for a while and checking the place out. The sun was about to set and the atmosphere was relaxed with people finishing their daily business. An entertaining event was the spontaneous cockfight some guys had going on in the middle of the road. Looked like training for the real thing which is still popular in that part of the world. After a while it was time to go back and meet Luke and Thierry for our sunset beer on the beach.

Spontaneously arranged cockfight in the middle of the street.

Spontaneously arranged cockfight in the middle of the street.

Fish laid out for drying.

Fish laid out for drying.

In the fishermen village.

In the fishermen village.

Paradise on Bara Beach
The next day I only wanted to relax and refuel my batteries before heading back to Makassar and boarding my ferry to Flores. I drove a bit to make it to Bara Beach, the beach west of Pantai Bira. I arrived at the beach, parked my bike and walked down the small steps. I was struck  … this might be one of the most beautiful beaches I have been to. Totally unexpected and almost deserted, only a few tourists present. The sand was as white as it can get and big, green palmtrees were lining the beach. The sea was a mix of turquoise and blue with little waves touching the fine sand here and there. It was great and I picked a shady place underneath a palmtree to chill for the next few hours. Apart from swimming a few times, that was all I did that day and it felt very good after the last three weeks which had been rather exhausting.

Pantai Bira-2

Bara Beach – A tropical Paradise.

Our last evening we spent having our standard sundowner by the beach and some fresh fish afterwards. Luke, Thierry and I had arranged our transport to Makassar for the next day and planned to spend one night there. Then we would all head for different destinations.

Last thoughts …
Pantai Bira was a nice break after having traveled a lot from North to South Sulawesi. I was a bit exhausted by that point and the relaxed atmosphere in Bira was just right to recover again and get some energy to move on. Tourism is yet not that developed there with only a few, rather basic guesthouses and a small number of options to eat out. This made for the original charm of the town. It was good there and honestly, even if there wasn’t so much to do, I easily could have stayed longer to live the lazy life.

12 Responses to Maybe the most beautiful Beach.

  1. The Chew-Machine

    Is that, is it really? It must be!!! IT’S DA-IN!!!!!!

    • Phil D.

      Chew-Bacca, it is Daing in the making. Only to be served as delicious Daingsilog dish! Don’t you miss your favorite Itlog Breakfast?

  2. brooklynbrentton

    cute post 🙂

  3. Lau - Klando Va de Viaje

    Hi!! Are you in Borneo? we are going to Borneo Malaysia in two weeks. Have you been there?
    Laura

    • Phil D.

      Hi Laura, go to hear from you. Where are you at right now? I haven’t been to Malaysian Borneo but I will go to Malaysia mainland this week and stay there for about two weeks I reckon. Wanna meet somewhere? Friends of mine have been to Borneo and were somewhat disappointed. But you should go and see for yourself. Make sure to let me know how you liked it and how it was …. Cheers, Philipp

  4. samokan

    what an amazing find , beautiful beaches. Who knows you might be there again in the near future and live “Buhay-baboy” lifestyle 🙂

    Great shots , as always.

    • Philipp Dukatz

      Hi Mikaela, thanks again. It was an amazing find, tat’s right. The place is chilled and I would have liked to stay longer but I had a ferry to catch. Definitely the place to indulge in the Buhay Baboy Lifestyle!

  5. Melina

    Wow – I am amazed by your trip to Sulawesi! Thanks for sharing

    • Phil D.

      Hi Melina, Sulawesi was great, indeed. One of the better trips I did during my journey. I just love to get off the beaten track and discover unique places without too much tourism. And Sulawesi had all of that. Was a bit tough getting around but I guess that’s the price. Cheers, Philipp

  6. Adrian

    Hi Philipp
    thanks for such a great blog from Sulawesi, very interesting in going in the next few weeks. Just wanted to ask you if you noticed if women in bikinis were a problem on beaches there, We plan on snorkelling mostly and my girlfriend is worried about the bikini thing. Thanks!

    • Philipp Dukatz

      Hi there, good on ya for chosing Sulawesi. It is a great place. How long will you guys be staying and where will you be going. No worries about the bikini issues. Sulawesi is mostly Christian and even in Muslim parts, I didn’t see any problems. Let me know how it goes ;). Philipp